Is May the French Riviera’s Best-Kept Secret?

Photo by SunKiss

Broadcasting from our sun-kissed studio on the Côte d'Azur, we have a confession to make: while tourists flood our beautiful coastline in July and August, we locals know that May might just be the Riviera's most perfect month. The weather is gloriously warm but not scorching, the sea begins its transition to that impossible blue, and there's a certain magic in the air before the summer crowds arrive.

What makes May truly special, though, are the delightful events that unfold around us – some world-famous, others charmingly under-the-radar. Here's our personal guide to the month ahead, including a few quirky celebrations you might otherwise miss.

The Gardens Come Alive

Just north of Nice's tourist centre, the ancient Arènes de Cimiez transforms every Sunday in May for the Fête de Mai. This isn't some polished production for visitors – it's a genuine celebration where local families have gathered for generations.

Under centuries-old olive trees, folk dancers perform while children play traditional wooden games. You'll hear everything from folk tunes to musette bands that get everyone from toddlers to grandmothers moving. Each Sunday brings performances from 11am to 7pm, with food stalls serving up perfect pan bagnat sandwiches and other Niçois specialties.

This year brings something special – the folklore troupe La Ciamada Nissarda celebrates its centenary with a regional folklore day on May 24th at the Arènes. If you want to experience the authentic rhythm of Nice beyond the promenade, this gentle celebration feels more like wandering into someone's garden party than a tourist attraction.

After-Dark Art Adventures

Here's a little secret that even some locals forget: European Museum Night on May 17th opens many national museums for free evening visits. There's something almost mischievous about exploring quiet galleries as twilight falls – as if you're getting away with something.

The Matisse Museum's special exhibition "Matisse Méditerranée" takes on an entirely different quality in evening light. The museum is also offering free admission to Nice residents on Sundays May 11th, 18th, and 25th, with special activities on the forecourt.

While wandering the Matisse Museum after hours, don't miss those Mediterranean views that kept the artist enchanted from 1917 until his death in 1954. As the sun sets over the same landscape that inspired his vibrant canvases, you'll understand why he never wanted to leave.

Photo by Anya Mackley for SunKiss

Quirky Corners

Some of our favourite May events happen in the most unexpected places. On May 23rd, the gorgeous Gothic Château de Valrose – normally hidden behind university gates – opens for a free choir concert at 8pm. Built between 1867 and 1870 for a wealthy advisor to Tsar Alexander II, this architectural gem hosted the artistic elite of 19th-century Cimiez. The concert may be lovely, but the real thrill is peeking inside this normally inaccessible historic monument.

If you're looking for a truly authentic experience, join locals in Villefranche-sur-Mer on May 24th for their modest May Festival. In Place Félix Poullan, traditional songs and dances lead up to everyone sharing free pan bagnat sandwiches. It's small, genuine, and utterly charming – just be sure to reserve your sandwich before May 17th by contacting the Villefranche-sur-Mer tourist offfice.

Between Cannes and Monaco

Of course, May brings those twin spectacles of international glamour: the Cannes Film Festival (May 13-24) and the Monaco Grand Prix (May 23-25). These events transform their respective towns in ways both exciting and sometimes overwhelming.

If you love the energy but prefer to skip the crowds and price tags, consider these alternatives: the Nice Opera presents Bizet's beloved Carmen on May 28th with Romanian mezzo-soprano Ramona Zaharia in the title role.

And here's a musical gem you might otherwise miss: legendary Moroccan band Nass El Ghiwane performs at the Casino Palais de la Méditerranée on May 24th. Often called "the Rolling Stones of Africa," their powerful rhythms have influenced generations of musicians and offer something completely different from typical Riviera entertainment.

Practical Notes from Locals

A few friendly warnings from those of us who live here year-round: while May is generally less crowded than summer, hotels fill quickly during the Festival and Grand Prix weekends, with prices to match. The trains connecting Nice, Cannes, and Monaco will be particularly packed during these events – but the coastal journey between towns is rather lovely if you're not in a rush.

After years of living here, we've found that May offers a perfect balance – the excitement of world-famous events alongside quieter, more intimate celebrations that reveal the Riviera's authentic character. It's like getting a sneak preview of summer while still being able to find a peaceful corner to call your own.

What will you discover on the Côte d'Azur this May?